STAFFONLY: Crafting Collective Creativity
We at FLH are inspired by your brand's innovative approach. With the growing fatigue surrounding 'the iconic creative directors' at major fashion houses, your brand philosophy feels especially relevant.
Even for seasoned fashion aficionados, unravelling whether a brand is genuinely profitable or merely inflating prices as a façade of success in the luxury industry can be an intricate challenge.
Traditionally, designers would stay with a fashion house or brand for 5-7 years, cultivating a stable and innovative backdrop. Today, brands switch every 2-3 years, often overlooking the teams behind the CD. This constant movement can hinder the repose and research necessary for genuine creativity, stimulating competition, and an endless sense of urgency for the next "trendcore."
You support and are inspired by staff cultures, how does this approach shape your identity?
That's a very interesting point, and we often discuss it internally. The debate is ongoing between providing consumers with a stable, reliable style and design language versus constantly introducing fresh, innovative ideas. Frankly, there isn't a clear-cut answer.
We are a vibrant and dynamic team where everyone is a creator. Our seasonal themes may come from the design department or even the marketing team rather than being solely directed by the CD. This inclusive approach brings diverse perspectives into each collection, making our designs richer and more varied.
We adhere to the principle that "each season is a project." While there are considerations for product planning and sales, our creative process is akin to novelists describing a character. This method continuously fuels our inspiration and encourages us to innovate, though it also adds to the pressure of constant creativity. This collective and fluid approach not only shapes but also defines STAFFONLY's identity, highlighting the importance of every team member's contribution and fostering a strong sense of belonging and collaboration.
How does celebrating collective effort shape the work environment?
Our work environment resembles a dynamic and collaborative think tank rather than a traditional office setting. Everyone here is a contributor, constantly offering ideas and inspiring one another. We don't adhere to a strict hierarchical structure; our team members come from diverse professional backgrounds, enriching our collective creativity.
We utilize a sizeable online whiteboard where everyone can post their inspirations, thoughts, and sketches. This collaborative space is crucial, primarily since some of our team members work remotely from different cities, bringing unique perspectives to the table.
Regularly, we invite external designers, collaborators, and partner brands to conduct workshops. These sessions often lead to the exchange of ideas, short-term projects, and discussions on various topics ranging from language to visual inspiration. The direct and open sharing of thoughts and processes is vital to how we operate at. This approach fosters a creative and inclusive environment where every team member's contribution is valued, and collective effort is celebrated.
What inspired the unique concept behind the collection, "PRIME CUT"?
This collection continues our theme of "Professional Observations." In Chinese culture, there is a saying, "君子远庖厨," suggesting that gentlemen should stay away from the kitchen, reflecting a historical bias against certain professions. This concept inspired us to explore the modern implications of such professional prejudices.
While the profession of chef has shed much of its historical stigma, the role of butcher still carries some controversy. Through the "PRIME CUT" collection, we aim to uncover the societal perceptions and stigmas attached to this profession and highlight the valuable contributions these individuals make to society.
This project seeks to provoke thought and discussion about professional biases and the evolution of societal attitudes towards various occupations.
Though often viewed as unfavorable, procrastination became the muse for one of your collections. Could you share the story and inspiration behind your SS 2024 "Procrastinating Progress"?
The "Procrastinating Progress" collection celebrates the significance of the creative process itself. In an era marked by the rapid advancement of AI and an increasing emphasis on efficiency and instant results, we, as creators, recognize the invaluable insights that come from the process's unpredictability. It's through these unplanned moments that we often discover new, unexplored territories.
This collection highlights the beauty of the "unfinished" states that designers often encounter. It can be seen as a subtle protest the AI-driven push for constant productivity. We want to remind people to appreciate the hands-on experience of drawing, crafting, and making things themselves. The journey, with all its trials and errors, is essential to true creativity and innovation.
How do you navigate the rapid changes and the rise of AI in the creative industry?
We believe that how AI operates can interrupt the human creative thought process. While fascinating, AI often bypasses the crucial "problem-solving" phase of our minds, providing numerous answers instantly. It's important to recognize that using AI effectively requires significant skill. People should learn to collaborate with AI rather than simply treating it as a tool.
"We see the mass learning of online images by AI as a potential threat to the originality of independent brands. To ensure our output remains original, we have developed a specific process for collaborating with AI."
We also have a procedural artist who assists in training our proprietary STAFFONLY AI. This AI is taught exclusively on our historical data, allowing it to generate work based on our unique style and logic. This controlled approach helps us maintain the originality and authenticity of our creations while leveraging AI's capabilities.
How does the concept of communal identity shape or inspire your design process?
For us, communal identify plays a pivotal role in shaping our designs. It serves as a code, representing a community gathered by curiosity. Clothing is our primary medium, through which we break the constraints of conventional identities and radiate new cultural scenarios.
We aspire for every profession to escape traditional confines. Through our designs, we aim to create uniforms free of these limitations, fostering a unique dress culture for each occupation.
Our design philosophy is:
"The STAFFONLY tribe is always curious and humorous. They are willing to push boundaries and explore the unknown territories of the world."
What is the primary message or theme you wish to convey through your designs?
We continuously explore the relationship between individuals and their work. In China, work occupies a significant portion of people's lives, and traditional values highly regard professional success.
However, as times evolve, the definition of work has become more inclusive. It is no longer just about creating tangible value but also about contributing to society and generating intangible benefits. We celebrate professional dedication and the spirit of perseverance, but we also aim to remind people to pay attention to their emotions, desires, dignity, and personal growth.
How does your collaborative design approach fuel your team's creativity and innovation? How do you go about your research?
Each project follows a unique design process, highlighting the flexibility of our team collaboration. We often describe our translation method as a black box; we view each team member as a cog in a machine, where different combinations yield varying speeds and results.
For instance, in some seasons, we take a novelistic approach by writing storylines to guide our creations. In other seasons, we conduct user research and engage in discussions based on real social issues. There are also times when we approach design through game creation. The common thread across all these methods is that we do not start with a predetermined outcome. Instead, we embrace the changes and branches that emerge throughout the research process.
This adaptive and open-ended approach allows us to explore new avenues and fosters a dynamic environment where creativity and innovation can thrive.
"By not restricting ourselves to a single method or expected result, we maintain a constant flow of fresh ideas and perspectives, driving our design process forward."
What is your North Star for the coming five years?
Our vision is to become a platform that leverages the mediums of the body and clothing to support and promote a diverse range of creative expressions. We aim to provide a space where more individuals can engage in varied forms of artistic creation, using fashion as a conduit for broader and more inclusive creativity.
Thank you, team STAFFONLY, for sharing your unique story!
Interview by Johanna Ljunggren
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